A Sip and a Thought (Field Day): HEB Creekside/J Lohr Wines & Food Pairing

THE WOODLANDS, TX -- With the concluded festivities of The Woodlands Wine & Food Week still warm in our memories, my friend, Bill Azzam, the Beer & Wine Manager at the Creekside Park H-E-B, on Kuykendahl Road, just a tad south of the county line, was able to pull off a bit of a coup in snagging J Lohr Co-Owner and Chief Brand Officer, Cynthia Lohr, to his weekly wine pairing event. The beautiful Ms. Lohr is the daughter of the vineyard and winery’s founder Jerry ‘J’ Lohr, the South Dakotan, who moved to California, not to surf, but to grow the vines that would make his family famous. Cynthia will be appearing at the Ladies of the Vine Tasting, Panel & Luncheon on Friday, June 6th, at the Club at Carlton Woods; and is well versed in the knowledge of the products of her winery.

Azzam, although classified as a Wine & Spirit Education Trust, or WSET II certified educator in wines, don’t let that fool you, he is an encyclopedia when it comes to the products on his shelves; and personally knows many of his customers who take wine seriously, and are often regulars to his little wine and food pairings that he holds inside the store. HA! I bet you didn’t know that you can have dinner at H-E-B!! Well, you can. Just get to know Bill, and you’re pretty much a shoe in. Azzam, for these special nights, usually on Thursday’s, but this happened to be a Tuesday evening, brings in Chef Dennis Kozak, an Independent School District Culinary Educator, who will be teaching at the Culinary Center at Montgomery ISD’s new Career and Technical Education, or CTE Center, located on Lone Star Parkway in Montgomery. They will have a restaurant open to the public, and MCN will be reviewing the first meals to come off the line. Also, I’d like to note the beautiful Megan, one of Bill’s assistants, because she’d be mad if I didn’t mention her name.

The special guest speaker, Ms. Cynthia had all of our eyes just a bit wider for this visit. Most nights, it’s the area or state brand representative, which is fine, but to get a blood family member in our midst is really special. After wiping the drool from my shirt, amazed at her beauty, I started taking copious notes, not wanting to miss a word she said. I loved her explanation of how the wines are named, which is ingenious. For instance, if the grapes were grown in a ditch off Smithfield Road, the wine would be named ‘J Lohr Smithfield Road Ditch Cabernet Sauvignon,’ or something to that effect. Shoot, if it were up to me, I’d even throw in the slope of the grapes, whether it was east, west, north or south.

I love the Lohr originality, I love the multi-generational family involvement and commitment to the enterprise, I love the diversity and distance apart of their three vineyards. Not all eggs are in the same basket, and if there is a setback, there is a great chance for a full recovery.

I’ll start with the wine that had Cynthia’s mother’s name on the label, ‘J Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon,’ dedicated to the Grand Lady Winemaker of the Lohr Family. She unfortunately passed away from breast cancer, which saddened me, because my mother passed away from cancer a little over four years ago. And the great thing about this wine is that J Lohr has worked with the National Breast Cancer Foundation for 15 years, and a portion of each bottle sold goes to the charity in the Mama Bear’s honor. Carol’s Cab Sauv was paired with a Bacon Cheeseburger Meatloaf, three words that make my mouth water, and there is no question that the wine pairs well with the ground beef, bringing out the savory flavors whether it be stews, meatloaf, or even burgers. It had a silky smooth mouthfeel, with the lighter tannins that eased off any roughness on the palate. The acidity of the marinara topping on the meatloaf was knocked back by those fine-grained tannins, making it even more delicious. The wine on the nose was fragrant, with a hint of cherry, and a mixed fruit and floral note. Below that you can detect the earthiness, along with hints of cinnamon, cocoa, and currants, giving off a wonderful aroma that screams cabernet sauvignon. Actually it’s Carol’s version, which was a real hint, and a real crowd pleaser on the palate. I also tried it with the tenderloin that was served, and it was a winner as well.

Cynthia’s chosen dessert wine, ‘J Lohr Tower Road Petite Sirah,’ made me think of the old Spanish Sirah, or Syrah, also Shiraz grapes in Texas, and that time that Texas rootstock saved the French Wine industry back in the 1870’s, because Texas stock was resistant to the blight of the root destroying pest of the time in French vineyards. And it's possible that Lohr’s Sirah has some Texas DNA, as well as more than likely drawing me away from my previous standard Tawny Port when I devour sweet delectables. Megan put down every kind of dessert she could grab off the shelf, and time and time again, I found myself reaching, biting, and sipping. And repeat, a dozen times, maybe more. I’d stay away from 100% Cream Cheese Danishes, because they neutralize the sirah a bit too much, but if there is fruit involved, it’s more than acceptable. On the nose, you get the mixed-berry aroma, with some floral notes. It’s very energetic with touches of red and blue berries, along with the Paso Robles grapes, that I noted. The finish I thought was the longest of the evening. It was concentrated and had a nicely balanced structure. I thought the Sirah best paired with chocolate cake, and if there were a ganache involved, I might have had to go into a broom closet and take a nap.

On the lighter side, Ms. Cynthia enlightened everyone on the ‘J Lohr Chardonnay October Night,’ named for the single night's harvest in a month that slips me. The short fermentation period of less than two weeks, accounts for its wonderful light hue. It’s a 100% Chard, and on the nose hints of gardenias, lemon, ripe apples and baking spices. It pairs well with crab cakes, halibut, scallops, and citrus-herb chicken. Chef Kozak, paired the October Night with a ‘Chimichurri Chicken Salad Sandwich,’ and he was right. Ms. Cynthia relayed the story that it is a second marriage wine, seeing after her mother passed away, that her father Jerry reconnected with an ‘old flame,’ who was also a widower, and October Night was served at their wedding.

Other wines that were served at the event were ‘J Lohr Sauvignon Blanc Fume Crossing,’ which paired with the hushpuppy-like, Fried Boursin Cheese Ball. The ‘J Lohr Wildflower Valdiguie,’ which was served with a rice-based Smoked Sausage Skillet. And the ‘J Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon,’ which was magical with a Roasted Pork Loin. The J Lohr family has an incredible roster of wines that will tempt your palate. So head on down to your local H-E-B, and check them out.

Alcohol Disclaimer: This column is intended for entertainment purposes only. Please drink responsibly, not just for yourself, but for others around you.

H-E-B Creekside is located at 26500 Kuykendahl Rd. just south of Montgomery County in Tomball

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Ruben can be reached at: ruben@montgomerycountynews.net